Lemongrass and garlic marinade, grilled until the edges catch. The mildest of the four.

The one to start with. Lemongrass and fish sauce that caramelize over charcoal into sweet, charred edges.

Whole shrimp straight off the charcoal — sweet, smoky, and gone first. Squeeze the lime over them.

Marinated beef grilled hot and fast so it stays tender in the middle. The richest of the set.

One each of chicken, pork, shrimp and beef off the charcoal grill. The easiest way to order for the table.

Crisp fried rolls of seasoned pork and vegetables, with lettuce and herbs to wrap and nuoc cham to dip.

Fresh rice-paper rolls, not fried — shrimp, vermicelli, lettuce and mint, with peanut sauce.

Fresh rice-paper rolls, not fried — grilled pork, vermicelli, lettuce and mint, with peanut sauce.

The house wing: fish-sauce caramel, garlic, black pepper.

Lightly battered and fried, with a squeeze of lime and salt-pepper-lime dip.

Pan-seared pork dumplings, crisp on the bottom, with a soy-vinegar dip.

Pan-seared chicken dumplings, crisp on the bottom, with a soy-vinegar dip.

Grilled meat on a crackling baguette with pâté, pickled daikon and carrot, cucumber, cilantro and jalapeño.

Fried wings glazed in tamarind — sour, sweet and sticky. Our pick to eat alongside a hazy IPA.

24 hour slow cooked beef broth serves with fillet mignon steak, cooked brisket, and meatballs.

Cubed beef seared hard and tossed — "shaken" — in the wok with onion and pepper. Served with rice and a lime-pepper dip.

Thick, chewy tapioca noodles in a silky crab broth, with sliced pork and shrimp. Comfort food, and one of the harder dishes to find in Katy.

The spicy one. Lemongrass and shrimp-paste broth from central Vietnam, thick round noodles, sliced beef and Vietnamese pork sausage.

Hanoi-style grilled pork and patties in a warm dipping broth, with rice vermicelli and a pile of herbs to build each bite.

The same noodles, wok-tossed instead of fried crisp — springy, smoky from the pan, with vegetables and your choice of protein.

Egg noodles fried to a crisp raft, topped with stir-fried vegetables and protein in gravy that softens it as you eat.

Broken jasmine rice with grilled meat, pickles and scallion oil. Saigon lunch, all day.

The loaded version — grilled pork chop, shredded pork skin, steamed egg cake and a fried egg over broken rice.

Cold rice vermicelli with herbs, pickled vegetables, crushed peanuts and grilled meat, with nuoc cham to pour over.

Wok-fired rice with a mix of proteins, egg and scallion, hot from the pan. Built for the middle of the table.

The same bowl without the beef: rice noodles and 24-hour slow cook Beef Broth, built for anyone skipping meat. No veggies included.

Nomad BBQ barbacoa folded into dumplings and served in a spicy beef broth. Rich, slow-cooked, and not subtle.

Wok-fired rice with smoked brisket, egg and scallion. The fried rice you want after a beer flight.

Our twelve-hour beef broth with smoked brisket from Nomad BBQ laid over rice noodles. Texas barbecue and Vietnamese soup, in the same bowl, on purpose.